Hard to believe I’ve been sewing for about five years now. I wanted to put some notes on my tried-and-true sewing patterns out into the internet in hopes that they might help other sewists find enjoyable patterns for future use and maybe illustrate the ways that a single pattern can be extrapolated upon or “hacked” to achieve different outcomes. I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so when I *finally* get the fit that I want in a toile or muslin, I like being able to make a few different versions of the garment and enjoy the process of making and re-making it before I have to start back at the drawing board, toiling something different. Re-making a pattern I already know and love is a great way knock out a quick win. The below patterns are all ones that I have made a bunch, wear a bunch, and love a bunch.

Lander Pants

I had been wanting to make a cropped wide-leg sailor-style pant for some time when I finally decided on the Lander Pant from True Bias. At the time, I had also considered making the Persephone pants, which the Landers have been compared to, but I went with the Landers because I figured that the standard two-piece leg would be easier to fit, though I would still like to try making the Persephones at some point.

I started by making a “carpenter hacked” pair based on these instructions from Sew North in a rust-colored stretch bull denim from Joann Fabrics (RIP Joann’s). A few months later, I decided to make a second pair in Julia Allison Cost’s lovely Yellow Bouquet Textile Corduroy fabric, which I hacked to forgo the patch pockets and instead featured a jeans-style pocket with pocket stays. And finally, I just started making a third pair in the View A shorts in some leftover green bull denim for the summer. In all variations I have adjusted them to use a zip-front fly instead of a button-front fly due to personal preference. (I did not use the zip-fly expansion pack.)

Styling notes: I like View B with the shorter-length inseam, and I enjoy that the pants can be worn with boots for a more tough/kickass look, or in the summer they can be worn with sandals for more of a beach-adventure vibe.

Gosling Shirt

I’ve gotten some real mileage out of this pattern. What first appealed to me about the Gosling shirt, from Sew Sew Def, was the fitted, modern silhouette and the unusual “Western” front yoke shoulder detail. Including wearable toiles, I’ve made two of these for my brother and three for my partner. For some of the variations, I combined the front yoke and the shirt front into a single pattern piece to simplify construction and play nicely with busier fabrics, rather than purchasing an entirely different pattern sans yoke detail.

Nikko Top

I love a good turtleneck, and the Nikko top by True Bias is the perfect simple, fitted mock-neck. The first version I made used a hazelnut bamboo jersey; the second one used a rayon blend pointelle knit from Joann Fabrics (pours one out) that I hacked to a lettuce hem turtleneck. Both are sooooo comfy. I have not made the sleeveless version yet, but I may still. I think it’s a great “blank canvas” of a pattern to experiment with construction and finishing techniques for sewing with knits, and it’s a great choice for when you find a fabric you adore and want to use for something you know you’ll wear all the time.

I’ve only made two of these so far, but I can think of myriad more options I’d like to try out: A version with visible/contrasting serged seams on the outside, a version with shorts sleeves for wear during the summer, and maybe even a version made with mesh or lace for layering under dresses or camisoles.

Styling notes: It’s a great shirt by itself, but it’s also form-fitting enough to layer a dress on top — think, pinafore dress — or cardigans/scarves/vests.

Bonus: Comox Trunks & Evie La Luve Ember Panties

I won’t include photos of these, since they’re more of a personal item, but I’ve made at least five pairs of Comox Trunks for my partner now, and quite a number of Ember Panties for myself. Making your own underwear is a great way to practice sewing with knits and can also help use up scraps of jersey fabric from other projects that would otherwise be thrown out. I’ve also purchased fabric in funny prints from Spoonflower to make custom ones for my partner; they make a great gift. (Hopefully this isn’t TMI).