Leopard Print Olya Shirt

After making the Ilford jacket twice, I wanted to branch out with the button-ups I’ve been making for myself. While I like and wear my previous Ilford, I wasn’t completely sold on the collar. This felt like the perfect chance to try a different pattern, and the Olya Shirt from Paper Theory Patterns caught my eye. With its unique construction and inseam pockets, it seemed like a fun challenge—and an opportunity to play with some unusual fabric from my stash. Plus, I love an overshirt for layering, and the Olya has quite a fan club on Instagram, which made me even more excited to give it a try.

Fabric & Materials

  • Leopard cotton flannel – a lovely donation to my stitching circle
  • Black rayon twill – used for the inner yoke, pockets, inner cuffs, under-collar, and inner collar stand; a lucky find from a Lucky Sweater trade
  • Notions: Black poly thread for stitching Black Guttermann Mara 70 thread for topstitching,  Black pearl snap buttons

The Sewing Process

Pocket Construction Notes

  • Note to self: ONLY under-stitch the bottom portion of the pocket.
  • When sewing pockets together, do not sew through the under-stitched section. Keep the stitching straight all around.
  • The pocket construction technique is a bit tricky at first but gives a slick result when you get it right

Design Notes

  • After looking at Paper Theory’s other patterns, they have a distinct perspective—the designer clearly isn’t a fan of traditional armscyes. In the Olya, I’d say it’s a win. The construction feels modern and intentional, but not necessarily intuitive on the first go.

Techniques I Practiced

  • Sewing curved hems
  • Experimenting with different collar stand and cuff techniques than I usually use.
  • Installing snaps (finally getting the hang of it!)—the slightly thicker flannel made a noticeable difference in success compared to my previous attempts with lighter cotton fabrics.

Styling Ideas

I initially thought the boxy silhouette would work well with layered sweaters, but after trying it, I wonder if a more drapey, summery material might be better? This flannel has more structure than expected, so a crop or tank underneath might be the way to go.

Lessons for Next Time

  • This is not a project for multitasking! The unconventional construction means it requires full attention.
  • Don’t be lulled into a false sense of security just because there’s no traditional armscye—this pattern has its own quirks that demand focus.

Final Thoughts

This Olya Shirt was an exciting project that pushed me to refine some tricky sewing techniques. While I love the print and structure, I’m curious to see how it would look in a breezier fabric. Perhaps a linen or lightweight rayon version is in my future? For now, though, I’m looking forward to seeing how this foxy leopard print fits into my wardrobe rotation!

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